Project Activity Of Bachelor-Designers Of The Costume In Regional Universities

Abstract

The article highlights the issue of improving the professional training of bachelor-costume designers in regional universities based on the use of an approach to the organization of project activities, considering the ethnocultural component. The relevance and timeliness of inclusion in the project activities of creative projects of ethnocultural orientation are substantiated, allowing students to familiarize themselves with the formation of a respectful attitude to the cultural values of other nations, especially in such a multicultural transboundary region such as the Far East. For the implementation of the educational process within the framework of project activities, this approach can be implemented through the implementation of creative ethnic projects of various orientations related to the reconstruction of a traditional costume, the development of stage costumes, the design of modern clothes, and accessories in ethnic style. In this study, an educational algorithm for including the ethnocultural component in project activities has been developed and tested on the example of creating stage costumes based on the traditional Koryak costume for the dance group of the Song and Dance Ensemble of the Pacific Fleet of the Ministry of Defense of the Russian Federation. The developed approach and algorithm will make it possible to implement design projects in the course of project activities in the areas proposed in this study: reconstruction and development of traditional stage costumes in addition to the Koryak one, and for other autochthonous peoples of the Far East, as well as the creative transformation of the ethnic and cultural heritage of indigenous peoples in a modern costume.

Keywords: Autochthonous peoples of the Far East, ethnocultural component of the educational process, project activities, regional universities

Introduction

By the Decree of the President of the Russian Federation of July 21, 2020 No. 474 "On the national development goals of the Russian Federation for the period up to 2030" (Ukaz .., 2020) and several legislative initiatives of the Government of the Russian Federation, the Ministry of Education and Science of the Russian Federation, special attention in modern Russian society is paid to the upbringing of a harmoniously developed and socially - a responsible person based on the spiritual and moral values of the peoples of the Russian Federation, historical and national-cultural traditions, which is becoming an integral aspect of modern educational activities, including at the university. Thus, at the state level, the importance of the role of education is emphasized, correlated with the system of values of the people, social relations based on the priorities of justice, respect for the culture and history of the country.

The combination of new and traditional formats of education, being one of the global trends in the development of universities in the country, defines project activities as one of the main activities of students in the system of educational institutions of higher education. Project-oriented programs, involving the team execution of projects of the full life cycle, should be considered as the main means of forming the necessary socially significant qualities of students, without which it is impossible to become a successful specialist in the modern labour market.

The project approach is of particular importance in the educational and educational activities of students of creative specialities, in particular, bachelors-costume designers, since work on projects is the basis of design activity. So, for example, for the training direction 54.03.01 Design in the Federal State Educational Standard of Higher Education 3 ++, universal competencies are established, aimed at the formation of graduate competencies related to the development and implementation of projects, teamwork. In the context of the actualization of the educational orientation of the educational process, including creative specialities, focused on ensuring the creative nature of mastering reality, the problems of upbringing a harmoniously developed personality based on the spiritual revival of nations, ethnic groups and regions, deep study and preservation of traditional culture reflected in the content of the Criminal Code are especially acute.

In particular, the report of the International Commission on Education of UNESCO proclaimed that education and training should contribute to the fact that, on the one hand, a person realizes his roots, and on the other hand, he becomes a bearer of his native, national and world cultures. The document emphasizes a two-pronged task: the development by the young generation of the cultural treasures of their people and the cultivation of a respectful attitude towards the cultural values of other nations.

In the context of the transformations of intercultural exchange in the last decade, there has been a steady interest of the world community in the Far Eastern region of the Russian Federation, in the mechanisms and principles of the cultural inheritance of ethnonational values, the peculiarities of decorative and applied art of the bearers of the cultures of the autochthonous peoples of the Russian Far East (Chukchi, Koryaks, Eskimos, Itelmens, Yukaghirs, Evens, Evenks, Aleuts, Nanai, Ulchi, Udege, Oroks, Negidals, Nivkhs, Ainu, etc.), whose number is a significant part of more than 60 autochthonous ethnic groups in the Russian Federation.

Problem Statement

Since a special place in the issue of national identity of local ethnic-cultures of indigenous peoples is occupied by the national costume, which is the most significant element of culture and conveys the values of material culture and arts and crafts, the study and preservation of the ethnic origin of the art of indigenous and small peoples become more relevant than ever for bachelor costume designers. The Far East, identifying their uniqueness, popularizing various types of creative activity, relying on the ethnic and socio-cultural traditions of these peoples.

Due to the ability to accumulate traditions, socio-psychological attitudes, aesthetic needs of people, the suit can represent the world of spiritual and meaningful landmarks, everyday life and way of life, making up the cultural and historical era as a whole in its basic meanings (Kumpikaitė & Milašius, 2021; Peng & Dong, 2017). Traditional clothing, being an important factor of ethnic-identification and a repository of values and meanings of a particular culture, can form a person's personality as a bearer of the norms and values of his native culture, to establish processes of tolerance and national-cultural identity (Ermilova, 2020; Minhus & Huie, 2021; Somayaji et al., 2021) and serves as a cultural and creative object (Meng & Xiao, 2021; Montusiewicz et al., 2021; Nayak et al., 2021; Proje & Bizjak, 2018), most relevant to the design activities of the bachelor-designers suit.

Research Questions

Recently, numerous studies have been carried out, in which the authors note that one of the effective means of forming professional competencies of students at the university is project activity (Combey & López, 2022; Efanova & Ivanova, 2020; Firulina, 2019; Gusejnova & Amel'kin, 2021; Kovrov, 2019; Kudinova & Skul'movskaja, 2018; Shkunova & Rezvyh, 2019; Vaganova et al., 2017). At the same time, the study of the authors (Tenjukova & Hrisanova, 2018) emphasizes that the content of project activities can be a means of orienting students to humanistic ideological attitudes and life values, the need to master the values of universal and national culture.

These provisions are reflected in the educational process of bachelors-costume designers, the focus of their project activities is related to the development of design projects for various types of households, runway clothes, the reconstruction of historical and traditional costumes (Demenkova & Danilova, 2020; Koveshnikova & Koveshnikov, 2017). At the same time, it should be noted that project activities in regional universities are proposed to be used mainly in the development of creative abilities and cognitive capabilities of students, while not fully taking into account the educational value of the ethnocultural component of the educational process. Meanwhile, the results of many studies prove that the formation of ethnic culture, ethnocultural values in the modern education system has a huge educational potential (Babarykina, 2020; Mongush, 2018; Samojlova, 2018).

Theoretical analysis showed that the problem under study is clearly insufficiently disclosed in the theory and methodology of higher professional education, and the issues of implementation of project activities in regional universities related to familiarizing with the national culture, values of peoples, including small numbers living in this region, are still have not been considered since.

The development of theoretical and practical aspects of introducing an ethnocultural component into project activities in regional universities will allow, along with professional competencies, to more effectively form the spiritual and moral culture of bachelor-designers, which meets the requirements of the Federal State Educational Standard of Higher Education 3 ++.

Purpose of the Studу

The purpose of this study is to identify the features of the project activities of bachelor-costume designers in the conditions of regional universities.

Statement of the task. To form approaches to the organization of project activities, taking into account the ethnocultural component in regional universities; to formulate research directions for the implementation of project activities in the framework of the implementation of creative projects in regional universities; to develop an educational algorithm for project activities based on the example of the implementation of ethnoprojects.

Research Methods

Theoretical approaches and methods: a systematic approach that allows us to consider the process of education at a university in the form of a system, an integrated complex of interrelated elements; competence-based, defining the main idea of building the educational system of a university in modern socio-cultural conditions, taking into account the relationship between ethnic education and training; as well as activity and personal approaches; bibliographic method, analysis, and synthesis, methods of induction and deduction, methods of structuring and generalization, modelling.

Empirical methods: methods of design research (comparisons, systematization and typology, stylistic analysis), methods of practice-integrated learning, the study of the pedagogical process in changed conditions (pedagogical experiment and experimental verification of the research findings in a higher school environment).

As part of the project activities at the Department of Design and Technology of Vladivostok State University of Economics and Service (VSUES), on the instructions of the leadership of the dance group of the Song and Dance Ensemble of the Pacific Fleet of the Ministry of Defense of the Russian Federation, a project was implemented to create stage costumes based on the traditional Koryak costume.

The subject of theoretical research is the project activities of bachelor-costume designers in the conditions of regional universities, empirical research is a stage dance costume based on the traditional Koryak costume.

At the ascertaining stage of the pedagogical experiment, the formation of the structure and content of the stages of the project was carried out - the study of the creative source in various aspects based on the analysis of special literature, museum exhibits, the results of field research in the places of residence of the autochthonous peoples of the Far East (Koryak ethnic group), requirements for a stage dance costume, adapted for modern folk dance, materials, and technologies for making samples of national Koryak clothing, samples of decorative elements and actual methods of their implementation.

At the formative stage, draft and technical designs of models of stage costumes based on the traditional Koryak costume for the dance group of the Song and Dance Ensemble of the Pacific Fleet of the Ministry of Defense of the Russian Federation were developed. The manufactured models of women's and men's suits were tested on the members of the dance group of the ensemble, according to the results of an ergonomic assessment, the corresponding adjustments were made to the experimental samples. The finished products were tested in real conditions during the performance of the creative team at the celebration of the Day of the Navy in Vladivostok.

Findings

The analysis of theoretical studies in the field of the formation and development of ethnocultural values of student youth has shown that today the formation of value ideas and orientations is relevant not by direct transfer of common human experience to students, but by the formation of a suit design for bachelors of moral values based on an independent choice of moral criteria based on humanistic ideals formed in a person in the process of education and upbringing (Babarykina, 2020). For this purpose, it is necessary to apply such forms of work in which the student can and will be interested to take part. Thus, it seems appropriate to include in the design practice of design projects that contribute to the preservation of ethnic culture, the development of ethnocultural values, the ethnocultural development of ethnic groups living in the Far East.

In this regard, as the main approach to project activities, taking into account the ethnocultural component, it is proposed to consider the discipline "Project activities" in regional universities as a pedagogically organized process of assimilation and acceptance by students of basic national values, the development of interest in the creative potential of folk-art culture, orientation to national traditions and customs of the ethnos of a particular region. At the same time, the inclusion of bachelors-costume designers through project activities through the understanding of the harmonious unity of the image of a person and costume in the festive and ceremonial, museum, exhibition, and concert activities aimed at preserving and developing the ethnocultural values of the autochthonous peoples of the Far East is considered.

For the implementation of the educational process within the framework of project activities, this approach can be implemented through the implementation of creative ethnoprojects of various orientations: reconstruction of a traditional costume; the development of stage costumes; designing modern clothes and accessories in ethnic style.

Using the example of creating stage costumes based on the traditional Koryak costume, an educational algorithm for including the ethnocultural component in project activities has been developed.

At the first stage, students study the creative source in various aspects (analysis of the design, materials and technologies for making samples of national clothes, samples of decorative elements and actual methods of their implementation based on the analysis of special literature, museum exhibits, the results of field research in the places of residence of the ethnic group.

The result of the work carried out at this stage, related to the study of folk clothing, is the identified, conditioned by the anthropological and socio-religious characteristics of this ethnic group, the most characteristic symbols that carry an information-sign semantic load in the costume: the figurative structure of the folk costume, the geometric appearance of the silhouette form, internal constructive and decorative divisions, type of material, colours and ornamentation.

In the course of the project activities, certain signs of the traditional Koryak costume (Iokhelson, 1997; Maltseva & Belokopytova, 2020; Rudenko, 2017) were identified, which are encoded information about its distinctive features, and allowing them to be used as markers of national identity: clothes of a predominantly straight silhouette or trapezoid, with a shirt sleeve, one-piece with a hood, natural colours and materials(reindeer skins), with ornamental design in the form of a ribbon composition or rosette using the simplest geometric shapes and a combination of zoo- and anthropomorphic images, mainly along the bottom of the sleeve and the product, with fur trim from the neck hair of a deer, from pieces of the fur of various colours and with a fringe made of genuine leather. It has been determined that the traditional costume complex includes: kukhlyanka - deaf clothes with a hood combined with a bib; underwear - women's fur jumpsuit (kerker) and men's or children's fur pants (konites); headdress (malachai, headbands); fur boots (torbasa) and accessories (belts in men's clothing, tobacco pouch, bags).

The results obtained at the first stage are the basis for formulating at the second stage the requirements for ethnic costume, depending on the purpose and area of use.

Therefore, when developing the Koryak stage dance costume, it was concluded that when creating this type of costume, it is necessary to adhere to special requirements.

Analysis of the literature in the field of creating a dance costume based on folk (Akkuratova & Roganova, 2019; Burcev et al., 2021; Kadyrova, 2019), made it possible to summarize the requirements and rules that artists must adhere to when creating the image of a stage costume. It was revealed that the main requirements in the development of stage costumes are, firstly, the dependence on the content of the number, and, secondly, the need for decorativeness, brightness of the stage image, due to the presence of objective laws of visual perception from the stage from a distance of at least 5-6 meters. Thus, on the one hand, a certain stylization of the costume is acceptable, on the other hand, in the folk costume there should be information-symbolic symbols, which, starting from the form, division of the plane, the colouristic solution and ending with ornamental forms, have a certain meaning. The following culturally significant ethnic symbols are identified: colour, silhouette, the texture of material, decor, separately identified elements of clothing. The results obtained were fully taken into account when designing a stage dance costume for the Koryaks.

At the third stage, a preliminary design and a technical design for models of ethnic costumes are developed. Experimental samples undergo control tests on representatives of autochthonous peoples, members of creative groups or clothing demonstrators, and appropriate adjustments are made based on the results of an ergonomic assessment. Ready-made suits are tested in real conditions by their purpose.

The educational algorithm was implemented in the course of the project activities of bachelors-costume designers when creating stage costumes based on the traditional Koryak costume for the dance group of the Song and Dance Ensemble of the Pacific Fleet of the Ministry of Defense of the Russian Federation (Zaytseva et al., 2021). A draft design (Fig. 1) was completed, based on which models of female and male stage dance costumes were made, tested in real conditions during the performance of the creative team at the celebration of the Day of the Navy in Vladivostok.

The above makes it possible to practically use the developed educational algorithm as a pedagogical tool in the formation of the artistic culture of bachelors-costume designers: fostering a respectful attitude towards folk art and culture, developing a creative personality that can comprehend the enduring value and beauty of national artistic culture; understanding of the people's contribution to universal human spiritual culture.

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Conclusion

The paper substantiates the importance of the ethnocultural component in the educational process of regional universities and proposes an approach to organizing project activities, which consists in considering the discipline "Project activity" as a pedagogically organized process of mastering and adopting basic national values by students, developing interest in the creative potential of folk-art culture, focusing on national traditions and customs of the ethnos of a particular region.

For the implementation of the educational process within the framework of project activities, this approach can be implemented through the implementation of creative ethnic projects of various orientations.

The developed educational algorithm in the form of a certain sequence of the most important stages in the creation of ethnic projects, tested on the example of the Koryak stage costume, contributes to the formation at a high level of professional competencies of bachelors-costume designers, the preservation of ethnic culture, significant ethnocultural values of peoples, including the small ones living in this region.

The developed approach and algorithm will allow, in the course of project activities, to implement design projects in the directions proposed in this study: the reconstruction and development of traditional stage costumes in addition to the Koryak one, and for other autochthonous peoples of the Far East, as well as the creative transformation of the ethnocultural heritage of indigenous peoples in a modern costume.

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